Hyaluronic acid in cosmetics – effect and properties

Hyaluronic Acid is an organic compound that we can find in our body in the form of sodium hyaluronate. For example in the vitreous body of the eye and in the synovial fluid. The most of this substance is found in the skin, about 56% of all its content in the body. It’s part of the intercellular matrix and is responsible for the proper maintenance of amount of collagen and elastin. Thanks to it, the skin is elastic and smooth. Unfortunately, from around the age of 25, its amount decreases and the skin becomes more flaccid and dry with age, which causes wrinkles, so it’s worth taking care of hydration in daily care.

Hyaluronic acid – properties

It’s an acid that doesn’t exfoliate. Due to its hygroscopic properties, it’s one of the most popular ingredients in moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetics, classified as humectants. One HA molecule can bind about 250 water molecules. Therefore, it has strong moisturizing and regenerating properties. Due to its ability to bind and store water, its structure is similar to a sponge. It can collect water from the dermis and protect it against external factors.

In cosmetics, it’s most often used in the form of sodium and potassium hyaluronate. It can have different particle sizes:

  • ultra-low molecular weight (ULMW)
  • low molecular weight (LMW)
  • high molecular weight (HMW)

Its particle size is important. The smaller their size, the better it penetrates the stratum corneum and reaches the dermis, providing strong and long-lasting hydration. A better option than the acid in the form of HA is its derivative – sodium hyaluronate, it has a smaller molecule.

Used in the cream as an humektant base, it moisturizes itself by stopping epidermal water loss. As alone, you need to give an occlusive cream or oil.

Who is hyaluronic acid for? Effects on the skin

Hyaluronic acid is a very mild substance, it doesn’t cause allergies and isn’t photosensitive. Therefore, it can be used by people with all skin types and throughout the year. It’s recommended:

  • people of all ages – as an anti-aging prevention
  • people with dry and dehydrated skin – as a moisturizing treatment

Cosmetics with hyaluronic acid show the following effects:

  • moisturizing – binds water
  • making it elastic and smooth – supports the formation of collagen fibers
  • regenerating and protective – supports the skin reconstruction processes
  • antioxidant – is able to catch free radicals

How to use hyaluronic acid?

In everyday skincare, hyaluronic acid is most often used in creams. It then works consistently in combination with emollients. Using hyaluronic acid alone as a serum of different concentrations may have the opposite effect to the intended one – dry the skin and leave a tight feeling. After applying such a serum, emollients should be used to prevent water from evaporating from the epidermis. Hyaluronic acid binds water and the emollient creates a protective film on the skin. It is best to use an occlusive cream based on oils or butters in cosmetics to work effectively. That is why conscious skincare is important and I encourage you to explore this topic by reading my blog :).

What cosmetics with hyaluronic acid should you use?

It is worth checking the form of hyaluronic acid in the composition of the cosmetic. The most effective form is sodium hyaluronate due to its molecular size. We can find it in INCI under the name Sodium Hyaluronate. Examples of cosmetics are:

  • BasicLab – Micellis – Żel Oczyszczający do Skóry Suchej i Wrażliwej
    INCI: Aqua (Water), Lauryl Glucoside, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Allantoin, Panthenol, Trehalose, Copper Gluconate, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Propylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate.
  • Miya – Beauty.Lab – Serum Wygładzające z Kompleksem Anti-Aging 5%
    INCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycoproteins, Sorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Copper Gluconate, Sodium PCA, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, Parfum, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, CI 17200.
  • Nowa Kosmetyka – Silnie Nawilżający Lekki Kremożel “Woda z Chłodem” – 30ml
    INCI: Aqua, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cetearyl Olivate, Lactobionic Acid, Sorbitan Olivate, Hyaluronic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Spirulina Platensis Powder.

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